Spain's modern bustling capital Madrid, is smack bang in the middle of the country. The heart of Madrid is open with grand architecture and wide avenues. Being relatively compact it is easy to explore and enjoy the ambiance in all its glory.

When visiting you would be well advised to be aware of the weather in Madrid. Sitting on a high plateau with low mountains to the northwest it does not enjoy the best of climates. Locally they claim to have three months of bad weather and the other nine months are awful. This can be taken with a pinch of salt, particularly if you are from colder regions but the winters are cold with biting winds while the heat of summer is best avoided. Typically most "Madrileños" head for the coasts or mountains. Check your Madrid travel guide but spring and autumn are the best times to visit.

Whatever the weather there is always somewhere to get away from it. With so many fine cafes, bars and restaurants to choose from, catering for all tastes and times of day you will have to plan your time well. Madrid being cosmopolitan, is not famous for any particular regional dish but this does not detract from the quality of what is on offer and it certainly adds to the variety. Restaurants in Madrid set a very good standard so visit the side streets and uncover small specialist tapas bars or hidden restaurants offering gastronomic delights.

The famous Prado Museum, housing Spain's finest art works is complemented by the The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, and the "Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía", The Queen Sophia Museum of Modern Art.

The 18th century Prado built during the reign of Charles III, is considered to be the best neoclassical building in Madrid. Its collection of paintings is one of the best in the world, housing the works of the great Velazquez, Goya, El Greco, Murillo, Zurbaran, Rafael and Rubens amongst others.

Behind the Prado is the huge expanse of the Parque de Retiro; perfect to stroll and relax away from the heat and the traffic. This is adjoined to the Royal Botanical Gardens. Close by, those travelling by train to or from the Atocha Station have the added pleasure of the indoor botanical gardens to enjoy.

The Royal Palace, "El Palacio Real", and the wonderful Sabatini Gardens are a must for many visitors, while the Plaza de la Cibeles is considered as the heart of Madrid. It is a good point from which to orientate yourself. Between the two, seek out the Plaza Major with its statue of Felipe III on horseback in the centre. It is off the Calle Major close to the Puerta del Sol and though large, it is mysteriously missed by some.

The Calle de Alcalá, runs into the main shopping street, the Gran Via. What a sight and what a shoppers' paradise! The large and famous department stores, fashion houses, shoe shops mix with the artisans and craft shops on this long avenue. With its surrounding streets and side alleys combined with long opening hours, Gran Via is the shoppers dream. In Madrid there is nowhere to go but the Grand Via. Look no further.

The great "Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas.", the bullfighting ring, is the largest in Spain. Recently, live transmission of bullfighting has been withdrawn from television but "afficianados" (fans) can enjoy their art from May to October.

Another great passion of the "Madrileños" is of course their beloved Real Madrid football club and a visit to the gigantic Santiago Bernabeu Stadium is a mecca for many fans. Madrid caters for all tastes and younger visitors often prefer the Warner Bros-Madrid Theme Park, the famous Zoo-Aquarium, Faunia Theme Park, and the Wax Museum.

While walking Madrid is the best way to see it, a city pass and the open top bus will save your legs for the nights out. Should you find yourself too far from your hotel and a little weary the metro system is very user friendly even for a foreigner.

Hotels in Madrid offer the whole range of accommodation as you would expect. From the luxurious five star hotels to the more modest "hostals" or the simple private rooms: everyone's budget is catered for. Note that "hostal" in Madrid is in fact a denomination of an hotel. Don't expect peace and quiet though except perhaps in the very early hours or during siesta if you are lucky! Spain is a noisy country and Madrid never sleeps.

Do not be surprised either that evenings start later than in many places and a night out is just that. With that said Madrid is a great city to be out on the town. Flamenco, blues, salsa and jazz compete with disco, rap and techno as music emanates from every bar, restaurant, club and street corner. This is a city full of people enjoying themselves.

Flights to Madrid are through Barajas International Airport which lies 15km to the east of the city. Transport to the centre of Madrid is by hire car (take A-2 Barcelona route to the M-30 highway) taxi, route 89 bus or the metro subway train service which takes you to the very heart of this wonderful city by changing at Mar del Cristal.

You may leave Madrid exhausted, wondering when and if the "Madrileños" ever sleep but you will certainly remember your visit.

Edward Kirwan, resides in Andalusia, Southern Spain and with Danish writer, Dorte Holm Jensen, is co-founder of Finca Fantastica Travel. Visit them for more travel ideas.